The Fence Post

A Fisher Cat Pays a Visit
Our first set of chickens were thrashed by what looked like the work of a head-hunting fisher cat--an odd type here in suburban New England. Our chickens, tragically named after Jane Austen characters, came to disastrous ends--four of them were left headless and scattered indiscriminately, while the other four had vanished. One imagines the fisher cat family sitting snugly at table.  

The Sleepy Possum

Ordinary chicken wire has its uses; but here, it was not the best choice. Soon our newly acquired replacement chickens were visited by quite a respectable possum who bunked in the cozy chicken cubicles, less tempted by eggs but rather by the shelter and soft beds of straw. Imagine scanning past the cubicles, checking for eggs, and finding a possum snoozing next door to a seemingly oblivious chicken. Chicken wire boasts flexibility, yes, but is highly susceptible to rust, is hardly rodent or small animal-proof and strong animals can shred it. As is often said, chicken wire is more for keeping chickens in than for keeping predators out. However, It can work well in areas devoid of predators or on the top of a pen in warmer climates to keep airborne hunters at bay.

A Strong Choice--½ inch, 19 gauge wire

More pricey than chicken wire--though if you add in the resulting security of your flock--it's less expensive. ½ inch welded wire is the safe, strong option. While being more difficult to cut than chicken wire, it keeps out a wide variety of predators and should be used on all openings, such as vents and windows, of the coop. Sized right to keep smaller predators from reaching in, ½ inch, 19 gauge wire mesh is certainly the stronger choice. It can be bent by hand and at the same time, it holds its shape well. Bury it 8-12 inches with a curve outward from the coop at the bottom. Vinyl-coated hardware cloth is a great way to avoid rust.

Keeps out larger animals, such as:

• dogs
• coyotes 
• foxes 

And smaller ones:

• possums
• snakes
• mice and rats
• weasels
• fisher cats

Finding the Hardware Cloth Solution

½" x ½" mesh, 19 gauge galvanized after weld (abbreviated generally by GAW) wire mesh and fence is commonly known as hardware cloth. Molten zinc is applied after the 19 gauge wire is welded into a ½" x ½" mesh. Here the workhorse zinc covers the entire wire cloth mesh, completely sealing it for protection against corrosion and rust--particularly crucial are the vulnerable welded areas which benefit greatly from this zinc bath. This guarantees that 19 gauge ½" x ½" mesh will be assured of long life and being of lighter weight and strength it ends up costing less than the thicker 16 gauge ½" x ½" mesh. It's great for enclosing small animals or keeping out rodents, gophers, and other nuisance animals. This also can be used for economical flooring for game birds while 16 gauge is also recommended. Keep in mind that availability may be an issue and that this is a material that requires special ordering. Louis Page can help with all those particulars.  

As you can see cutting this mesh takes some strength and some helpful tools... 

or here's a video with a good option... 

In From Above   

Ominously, predators don't just come from the ground and sides, but also from above. In thinking about a covering for your chicken run, consider thinking about aviary netting. Louis Page stocks a great netting that is extremely tough and can cope with snow load if you live in a cold climate.

Rust: The Enemy of Your Welded Wire Fence

• air
• moisture
• abrasion

These three can make short work of breaking down iron and its common alloy--steel. 

However, a coating of zinc reacts differently to these factors. As it corrodes, it forms a barrier (or patina), running interference between it and the steel or iron that it is sheltering.

Classes of Zinc Coating 

Class 1--lightest coating of zinc; widely available and lasts 2 to 11 years in non-coastal climates. (.28% zinc per sq. foot)

• Protection drastically reduced in humid climates. (For the record, there is no Class 2.)

Class 3--heaviest coating of zinc; lasts 13 to 30 years, often must be special ordered (.80% zinc per sq. foot)

• However, in humid conditions, the coating may last at least 15 years with wider wire gauges lasting longer

Zinc galvanization creates a first-rate coating for mesh and fencing that lasts

After wires are either welded or woven into a mesh, the entire finished product is drawn through a bath of molten zinc (830°F.) This galvanization-after-weave or weld method (GAW) creates a mesh that emerges with a thick coating tightly bonded to the wire. Each strand of wire is protected and more importantly, each vulnerable welded or woven area is thoroughly sealed. In some circles, this is known as "galvanic healing!" Officially, this is termed, cathode-anode protection.

More zinc = more protection...

...delaying the time  until rust sets in. So the more zinc per square foot, the longer it is until it rusts.

What's at work here?  Friability.

If something is friable, it is subject to the rubbing process that works on the surface of unprotected iron or steel, which offers no natural corrosion-resistant patina. Friability describes the flaking and breaking apart of a solid substance.

And the benefits of a Class 3 zinc coating?

• Lowest cost over the long run
• Damage resistance--the zinc patina guards the metal underneath
• Cheaper than stainless steel
• Consistent results
• Longest life

And what does the ASTM standard actually mean?

Seeing this on a product, such as for zinc coatings, shows that a company is adhering to a certain set of criteria for the quality of a product. These are internationally accepted guidelines, based on research, for the specifications of materials, products, and services as approved by a  governing board. (ASTM International was once known as the American Society for Testing and Materials.) Buyer beware: a company's adherence to these standards is voluntary. 

A Class 1 coating for your mesh or fence is anything but top rate. Now think again about that coating. It can mean: this looks fine or it'll do. In the long run (or even the short run), it will not stand up.  

Various elements that cause deterioration:

           airborne sand and dust           chemicals             salt               air             pollution       

A few zinc facts:

Zinc is the 27th most abundant element in the earth's crust. 70% is mined, 30% recycled. More than 50% of this is used to coat steel and keep it from disintegrating.

Zinc is found in rocks, soil, air, water, the biosphere as well as in humans, plants, and animals. (If you're an oyster lover, you're in luck: zinc is plentiful in oysters and it is essential for optimum health.)

Biology: organisms must have zinc to exist. For example, in the human body, zinc is important for cell division and is responsible for the function of red and white blood cells.

Finally, a short video:

Here's an example of zinc galvanizing in action:

These grand, imposing, flightless birds are probably as tall or taller than you. Some folks consider them pets, some consider them products. Whichever, we'll start with a brief description, then recommend the right fence, followed by explaining this bird's unique nesting habits.  

Obviously, if you're choosing an emu as a pet, your taste is somewhat extravagant and you no doubt realize that an appropriate space for this very large bird should be one of your first concerns. Here are some considerations:

• They range from 5 to 6½ feet tall
• Weighing up to 130 lbs.
• They can run up to 30 miles per hour
• Imagine these big birds traveling hundreds of miles for food and water in the Australian outback; they need space--for healthy birds, you must provide an opportunity for exercise; a long pen is recommended so they can run--at least ¼ acre to 2 acres in size 
• Audible--their grunts and squawks can be heard up to 2 miles away; you might want to think about your neighbors as you plan your emu enclave
• Emus are especially docile toward humans especially if they are handled from birth; if an emu feels threatened, its claws can do real damage; other small animals in the yard, such as chickens, can be trampled
• They like baths and enjoy an occasional dip; in a pinch, a child's paddling pool can suffice

About that enclosure...

Your emu will benefit from a  2" x 4" woven, non-climbable mesh fence that is five to six feet high. It is attractive, has a long lifetime, and makes a safe and secure fence for emus. The strong 10, 12½, or 14 gauge steel wires (depending on style) are thoroughly galvanized--treated for maximum rust and corrosion protection. The heavier wires used on the top and bottom edges give this fence additional strength. Stiff "square" knots, formed by a third piece of wire woven around each intersection, hold the horizontal and vertical wires securely. The mesh offers flexibility, allowing for its construction on uneven terrain. The woven knots are rust-resistant and will not hold water. This fence features knots that are smooth, which protect both animals and people from injury. 

A Friendly and Defensive Broody Male

Females are larger than males and can exhibit aggressive behavior, especially during the breeding season. They lay their eggs and wander off, leaving the males in charge of the nursery. The males build their nests in a shallow hole in the ground using grasses, leaves, and sticks. After the female lays her eggs, the male steps in. He becomes broody and takes control, remaining on the nest for 8 weeks until the emu chicks hatch.

Generally, the males may seem friendlier, being the nest tenders--yet much more defensive of the newly hatched chicks than of the eggs which can be removed from the nest without much upset. The male doesn't leave the nest, his sole activity (no eating, drinking, or even defecating!) is to turn the eggs a couple of times a day and understandably, during this stretch of time, he loses a third of his body weight. Once hatched, they will remain with their father for up to a year and a half and are ready for breeding between two and three years of age.

The female, having abandoned this domestic scene, goes on to mate with other males and will produce up to three clutches (between 5 and 15 eggs) in a season. In her wandering, the female may deposit eggs in the nests of males with whom she hasn't bred. The large eggs weigh about a pound, are teal in color, and measure about 3 inches wide and 5 inches long. Thinking culinarily, a single egg contains the equivalent of 10-12 chicken eggs with a richness similar to duck eggs.

Some Emu Facts

• Emus are in the family of originally southern hemisphere flightless birds known as ratites which include ostriches, kiwis, rheas, and the cassowary  
• They are omnivores 
• Their diet consists of nuts, seeds, fruit, bark, stems, insects, small reptiles, amphibians, and small animals
• One mature emu contains three gallons of oil, which is prized for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties
• They spend a good amount of their days pecking at things quite indiscriminately--an environment that provides foraging possibilities, with plenty of shrubs, dirt (they extract minerals), pebbles (used for digestion), and insects, help to keep them occupied, reduce boredom, and in turn may decrease the pecking of their enclosure
• Pens must be kept clear of any trash, wires, nails, etc. to avoid trips to the vet
• Pacing can be a sign of stress due to being confined
• In the bush of Australia, the usual predators of emus are dingoes, the native wild dogs, and eagles can also attack from above
• The eggs and smaller chicks are sought by a number of animals and reptiles, but the ever-vigilant male rarely allows an opportunity
• The life expectancy of an emu is 10 to 20 years in the wild and up to 30 years in captivity

The Australian Coat of Arms

Note: if you're interested in keeping ostriches, fence-wise, much of what applies to emus applies to them. And know that a 2" x 4" woven, non-climbable mesh fence is also used for:

• Garden fence

• Horse paddock fence

• Parks and public areas 

• Dog kennels and containment

• Naturally, avoiding contact is best
• Dawn and dusk are times when they roam--avoid walking a dog at these times (easier said than done)
• Your dog must be kept on a leash and not far from you
• Dogs are vulnerable to diseases that coyotes harbor--be sure your dogs' vaccinations are updated
• If a coyote comes too close, appear larger by standing on something (a rock or stump) and act in a threatening way, appearing as a danger, not prey
• The only way to keep cats safe is to keep them indoors
• Use noisemaking equipment to ward off a coyote that shows up repeatedly