The Fence Post

Galvanized Wire with Secure Fixed Knot Construction

Deer Fence featuring fixed knot construction. Each vertical stay wire is tightly wrapped around horizontal line wires making a secure barrier fence. The joint acts as a hinge that gives under pressure, then springs back into shape. The Class 1 galvanized top and bottom wires are 11 gauge. The "filler" wires are 14-1/2 gauge. Galvanized wire resists weathering and normal wear and tear.

This fence was previously known as Poultry and Garden Fence. The unique spacing of the horizontal line wires keeps predators out of orchards, vineyards and gardens. The openings of the fence are graduated - smaller at the bottom, larger at the top. Wires are spaced 1" apart at the bottom, the top spacing is 4", and the vertical stay wires are spaced at 6" intervals.

Rolls are available in three different sizes:

• 48" x 165' - 2048-9-14.5 style
• 60" x 165' - 2360-6-14.5 style
• 72" x 165' - 2672-6-14.5 style

Deer and Orchard Fence - Benefits

• Economical galvanized fence
• Larger 4" x 6" openings at the top
• Smaller 1" x 6" openings at the bottom
• Horizontal wires are crimped to allow for expansion
• Woven construction enables fence to conform to uneven terrain
• Ideal for keeping small critters away from where they're not wanted
• Use for making a pen to protect rabbits, chickens and other small animals
• Longer lifetime reduces frequency and high cost of repair and replacement

Deer and Orchard Fence - More Uses

• Chicken runs
• Rabbit enclosures
• Garden perimeter fence
• Nuisance wild life barrier
• Wood post and rail fence backer
• Protect fruit trees and berries from browsing animals

Deer and Orchard Fence is effective in a variety of settings!

When my son Daniel was 11 he announced he was getting goats. “You’re doing what?” I exclaimed. We had recently moved to a house on four acres in Massachusetts. He was looking at about two acres of grass to cut and being an entrepreneur at heart, he was determined to figure out the fastest solution to getting that job done. After much discussion, we headed to Crystal Brook Farm in Sterling, MA so Daniel could apply for a job. Ann Starbard, the goatherder and author of 'The Dairy Goat Handbook," hired him. How could she resist when he blurted out “I want to work for you and you don’t have to pay me.” That was the beginning of our life with goats and it all started with twins: Mr. Tumnus and Sherlock Holmes. Of course, before he brought the goats to their new home he needed a shed and a fence to keep them in.

Additions and Roaming

Then Ann gave Daniel a female goat for his birthday and no one bothered to tell me that she was pregnant! And true to many goats she had triplets: Amos and Andy and Abigail. And then there was Roo. Twelve years later we still have the original twins. Fencing them in and keeping them in has had its challenges through the years. Goats do roam and love to do it. They ate all my David Austin roses, our nice big strawberry patch, and my holly bush (with the most berries ever!) one Christmas. We found the weirdest streaks on our truck last winter: they had been licking the salt off the truck! I came home late one afternoon to find them playing in my neighbor’s front yard. Have you ever tried to get seven full-grown goats home? Without the neighbors hearing you? Not an easy feat. To a goat, the grass is always greener on the other side, especially after a New England winter.

Containing Them

There are two things you must accomplish with fencing in your goats:

• Keeping the goats contained so you don’t lose your roses (or your neighbors' roses!) or expose them to potentially harmful shrubs such as rhododendron
• Keeping your goats safe from predators: coyotes, for example

Thinking ahead:

• Type of fencing
• Land area you want to fence
• Size of your herd
• Terrain
• Your budget
• Do it yourself or hire someone

Options: Wire Mesh Fencing Materials

• Fixed Knot
• Electric fence, best used in combination with another fence
• Barbed wire
• Welded wire stock panels
• Stay-Tuff's Goat-Tuff™ fence

Are you thinking about getting goats? Do you already have goats in your life? Just remember one of the important things Daniel learned: A good secure fence is a necessity.

Integrated Pest Management Strategy

Deer prefer to eat plants with soft leaves and fruit. It is not unusual for a deer to go through 5 to 10 pounds of plant matter a day. Some of their food sources include fruit trees, rhododendrons, maples, and oak. Once deer establish a pattern of behavior it is very hard to break. However, this scenario might have been avoided using an Integrated Pest Management strategy. For instance, some of the methods for reducing deer damage are population control which involves hunting, trapping, and introducing contraception to reduce the herd. Hunting is less expensive. But most areas have communities that are more tolerant of deer and the damage they cause and are against hunting them.

Reducing Damage

Education is vital for preventing and managing deer problems. Understanding the biology and ecology of the species of deer in your area is important in finding alternatives that could reduce the damage caused by deer. You should be aware of the areas they gather in and the times as well as the size of the herd. Learn the identity of the plants and vegetation that they prefer. This information can prove helpful in selecting a method for controlling damage. Before selecting your method, try to have a goal in mind of what you want to accomplish.

Height vs. Electricity

Repellents can be used on plants to discourage deer from eating them. They work by affecting the smell or taste and making it difficult for deer to eat. Sometimes, deer will still eat the plants if they are hungry enough.

Scare devices or noise-making devices that are produced using gas exploders, dogs, blank gunfire, and fireworks.

Fences are the most popular control method. Fences are usually limited to small areas such as orchards, gardens, high-value crops, or areas where deer are particularly abundant.  There are two general categories: passive and active exclusion.

• Passive exclusion fences are woven wire fences that are too tall for deer to jump. They are at least eight feet high since deer can normally jump anything less than eight feet. A well-designed and effective fence will consist of 12-foot posts placed at 40-foot intervals and set to a depth of 4-feet, with woven wire attached to the posts. The bottom of the fence should be at ground level.
• Two 4-foot widths of wire fencing joined one on top of the other and attached to the posts can be used to keep deer out. You can also use an 8-foot tall deer fence. If a taller fence is desire, a strand of high tensile electrical wire can be strung above the woven wire.
• A fence that slants away from the area to be protected is a very effective design as well. These particular structures are often permanent and can protect an area year-round and should last at least twenty years. This method is recommended for areas that have recurring problems with deer damaging crops.

• Active exclusion fences use electricity to keep deer out of an area. The smell or appearance of the fence attracts the deer but when they touch the fence with their noses, they receive an electrical shock. This conditions the deer to avoid the fenced area. These fences are less expensive to construct than exclusion fences but are sometimes less effective because hungry deer can learn to jump over them. These fences also require more maintenance.

When you have the right fencing system in place to protect your orchards or plants, you can be sure the “buck” stops here!