Our Blog - The Fence Post | galvanized (28)

5 Types of Coatings for Wire Fences

June 24, 2016 | by Debbie Page

A Strong, Long-Lasting Fence

You’re all set to install a wire fence on your property. But what kind of coating will you use on the fencing material? It’s a question a lot of beginners don’t consider, but it’s an important one. The wire coating you use on your fence determines a number of factors, including how long it will last and how it will handle itself against the elements. So what are your options? Here are the basic types of wire coating for fences.

Class 1 Galvanized – This is the most basic type of coating, used on barbed wire and field fences. The wire is galvanized, by adding a thin, protective layer of zinc. It’s cheap and efficient, but unfortunately not as effective as other types of coating in the long term. Class 1 Galvanized wire fences start to rust quickly. They’ll last a maximum of 11 years, and sometimes as little as 2 years. In a coastal area, where there’s salt water in the air, it can last an even shorter time.
Class 3 Galvanized – This is a stronger, longer-lasting zinc coating. Whereas Class 1 wire coating uses 0.28 ounces of zinc per square foot, Class 3 uses a thicker coating of 0.80 ounces per square foot. It costs slightly more than Class 1, but it will last anywhere from 13 to 30 years before it rusts, making it well worth the investment.
ZA – A relatively new development, ZA is a Zinc-Aluminum hybrid coating. It uses less coating than Class 3, making it cheaper, but the aluminum prevents rust, so that it still lasts about the same amount of time. The result is a less expensive wire fence that will still last you up to 30 years before it rusts.
ZA and Paint – Paint on a fence does more than simply make it look more attractive. After galvanizing the wire with the Zinc-Aluminum coating, it’s painted with black polymer paint, which offers even heavier protection against rust and corrosion. It lasts even longer than a Class 3 Galvanized fence and protects against the harshest elements.

Vinyl – Also called PVC or UPVC coating, vinyl is the strongest wire coating of all when it comes to standing up against the elements. A thick, flexible PVC layer is added to the galvanized wire. That way, not only is it rust resistant, it also stands up to extreme temperatures, as well as UV rays and even physical abrasions against the fence. Plus, its flexibility means it won’t crack when the wire is bent. Generally available in either black or green, vinyl is the strongest, most durable, longest lasting wire coating you can buy.

Do You Want a Temporary Fence? Or Something Stronger?

So which wire coating is best for your fence? It depends on what you need and where you’re located. If your main goal is cutting costs, and the fence only needs to be temporary, then you can probably get away with Class 1 galvanized wire. If you’re looking for something a little stronger, that will last longer and save you money in the long run, go with Class 3 or ZA. If you really want your fence to last a long time, then ZA and Paint is the way to go. And if you live in a coastal area, or one with other harsh elements, and want a reliable, long-lasting wire fence, then you’ll want to go with vinyl coating. Consider your needs and your options carefully. A well-built wire fence with the right coating can last you a lifetime.

Topics: galvanized, Wire Coating, vinyl coated

Gopher Problem? Try This!

September 23, 2014 | by Duncan Page

Prevent a Takeover

Gophers are highly destructive animals. They live in burrows and like to eat many of the plants that people have in their gardens and yards. If a family of gophers takes up residence in your yard, you could quickly find your lawn taken over by gopher mounds and tunnels. It is easy enough to kill or capture gophers once they arrive, but it would be greatly preferable to keep them out in the first place.

Holes and Hazards

Gophers can cause a number of problems. The aesthetic damage to your landscaping is just the beginning. Gophers also eat garden plants like carrots, lettuce, and radishes. Gophers also carry dangerous diseases like rabies. They have sharp teeth, and like any other animal, they can be dangerous when they feel threatened. Worst of all, gophers make holes in your yard; these holes are a trip hazard for children, elderly individuals or well, anybody. Before you know it, a child could have a sprained ankle. An older person could end up with a broken ankle, wrist or hip. There are several solutions to gopher problems to choose from, depending on your needs, preferences, and budget.

Planting Strategy

Gophers have a rather adventurous palate, but there are some plants that they do not really care for. If you plant these species at the perimeter of your property, you could make your yard a less attractive area to gophers. For example, alliums, from the onion family are very pungent and are repellent to gophers. Some varieties of alliums are also very beautiful; however, remember these plants must surround what you want to protect. Consult the plant experts at your local nursery for advice on choosing other gopher-repelling plants.

Set a Trap

There are many reasons that trapping gophers may be preferable to killing them outright. Gopher traps allow you to rid your yard of gophers easily and humanely.

Poison: Maybe...maybe not

Poison is quite effective at killing gophers, but there are serious concerns surrounding its use. The poisons that are effective against gophers could also be harmful to children, pets or livestock. If you can be certain that none of these will be in danger of ingesting the poison, it may still be a good solution, provided you have some way to dispose of the dead gophers.

Fencing Them Out

Fencing is a very effective tool for keeping gophers out of your yard. What kind of wire mesh do you need? To keep the gophers out, choose wire mesh fencing with no more than ½-inch openings. Gophers are burrowing animals, so the fence should extend at least 18 inches below the surface. Because it will be highly susceptible to corrosion, choose galvanized steel or vinyl coated fence wire. If your yard is already populated by gophers, you will need to use one of the other methods to get rid of the gophers once you install the fence; otherwise, you could end up with a gopher sanctuary.

Protect and Defend

No matter what solution you choose, keeping gophers out will make your property a safer place that is better looking or more productive. It takes a lot of time and energy to maintain a healthy yard; don't let gophers ruin your hard work. Choose the solution that works for you and get rid of these uninvited guests before they ruin the party.

Topics: gopher fence, vinyl coated wire, galvanized, 1/2" mesh

Deer Fence - Keep Your Orchard Safe

October 3, 2013 | by Duncan Page

Galvanized Wire with Secure Fixed Knot Construction

Deer Fence featuring fixed knot construction. Each vertical stay wire is tightly wrapped around horizontal line wires making a secure barrier fence. The joint acts as a hinge that gives under pressure, then springs back into shape. The Class 1 galvanized top and bottom wires are 11 gauge. The "filler" wires are 14-1/2 gauge. Galvanized wire resists weathering and normal wear and tear.

This fence was previously known as Poultry and Garden Fence. The unique spacing of the horizontal line wires keeps predators out of orchards, vineyards and gardens. The openings of the fence are graduated - smaller at the bottom, larger at the top. Wires are spaced 1" apart at the bottom, the top spacing is 4", and the vertical stay wires are spaced at 6" intervals.

Rolls are available in two different sizes:

60" x 165' - 2360-6-14.5 style
72" x 165' - 2672-6-14.5 style

Deer and Orchard Fence - Benefits

Economical galvanized fence
Larger 4" x 6" openings at the top
Smaller 1" x 6" openings at the bottom
Horizontal wires are crimped to allow for expansion
Woven construction enables fence to conform to uneven terrain
Ideal for keeping small critters away from where they're not wanted
Use for making a pen to protect rabbits, chickens and other small animals
Longer lifetime reduces frequency and high cost of repair and replacement

Deer and Orchard Fence - More Uses

Chicken runs
Rabbit enclosures
Garden perimeter fence
Nuisance wild life barrier
Wood post and rail fence backer
Protect fruit trees and berries from browsing animals

Deer and Orchard Fence is effective in a variety of settings!

Duncan Page signature

Topics: deer fence, galvanized, fixed knot, deer and wildlife fence

How to Choose the Right Coating for Woven Wire Fencing Materials

August 7, 2013 | by Rick Hoffman

Protecting Your Fence

Are you thinking of putting up a woven wire fence?
Do you need to contain animals within an enclosure?
Do you want to exclude animals from an area to protect your plants and vegetation?
Do you know that there are different types of coatings available to protect woven wire fencing materials from rust and corrosion?

An Effective Coating

Think about fence coatings as you think about paint. It's a way to protect your fence from the day to day elements: humidity, harsh chemicals from the soil, fertilizers, acid rain, etc.

It is important to select the right type of coating for your fence. Environmental factors, including humidity, acid rain, blowing sand or dust, salt and fertilizer can have a detrimental impact on the lifetime of your fence. The proper coating protects your fence from these elements and can keep it looking great for years.

There are three different coating options available on agricultural type woven wire fences. These are the types of fences used for deer and other wildlife as well as farm animals such as cows, horses, etc.

Class 1 - 2 to 11 years before rust

Class 1 zinc coating is the standard, basic and most readily available type. It has a coverage of .28 ounces of zinc per square foot. In most non-coastal climates, Class 1 zinc coated wire has an approximate life of 2 to 11 years until rust occurs.

Class 3 - 13 to 30 years before rust

Class 3 galvanized coating features .80 ounces per square foot, approximately 2-1/2 times thicker than standard Class 1 galvanized coating. As a consequence, in most non-coastal climates, it has an approximate life of 13 to 30 years before rusting. When you calculate the time, cost and hassle of replacing and repairing a fence, spending slightly more initially for a Class 3 product makes a lot of sense. Most DOT projects specify Class 3 fencing materials.

ZA

ZA Zinc Aluminum coating is 95% Zn, 5% Al. This is a new zinc-aluminum hybrid coating developed and produced exclusively by Bekaert. Salt spray tests have shown that it will last more than three times as long as Class 1 and close to the same as Class 3 galvanized woven wire fence. ZA uses less coating than Class 3. You save money when you buy a ZA coated product. And you're assured years of trouble-free use.

ZA + Black Paint

ZA+Paint is the newest innovation from Bekaert. Black polymer paint is combined with ZA coated wire. This provides longer fence life in an attractive color. Black blends with the background and becomes virtually invisible. This coating is designed to provide maximum protection from the most corrosive environments. It has a longer expected lifetime than Class 3 coated wire. With ZA + Black paint, you get a good looking woven wire fence with an exceptional lifetime and it will keep its appearance for years.

Not all specifications are available with every type of coating. For example the ZA + Black paint is currently available in three specifications of Deer and Wildlife fence with graduated openings and 2" x 4" woven horse fence.

If long life and lower overall total costs for fence installation is important, determining the best coating for the type of environment where the fence will be installed is crucial to ensure you choose the best fence for your needs. What environmental factors do you have to contend with in your location? Anything unusual? Give us a ring and tell us about your particulars. Call (866) 328-5018

Topics: woven wire, galvanized after, galvanized, vinyl coated

How To Use Galvanized Fence Staples

August 3, 2013 | by Josh Lane

A Brief Lesson Before Stapling

Do you know how to use galvanized fence staples? I certainly didn’t. I didn’t realize there was anything to know.

Fence staples or u-nails as they are also called aren’t very complicated; however, there is a minimum amount of knowledge you should have to make sure the staples secure your fence in the way that they're intended to be. Being one whose staple knowledge was insufficient to use them, I consulted an expert who kindly took the time to educate me. Steven Sarson (watch his video about Low Carbon Wire vs High Tensile Wire) of Bekaert has many years of experience in the fencing industry and sent me an email that was very informative and I’ve included it in its entirety below.

Here is Steve's letter:

Josh,

Here are my general ideas on stapling wire to posts:

Smooth wire electric – Loose staple every wire. Keep spaces consistent by using a measuring stick with spaces marked on it. Start from the bottom when stapling. Most animals will go under the fence rather than over.

Barbed Wire – Loose staple every wire. Use a measuring stick. Mark the wire positions. I prefer to start at the top when installing multiple strands of barbed wire so successive wires don’t get hung up.

Woven Wire – Always loose staple the wires. Wire expands and contracts with temperature change and also needs to be free to move under the staple so the brace takes the impact and not the stapled post. Here is the pattern I use:

High Tensile field fence (Fixed Knot, Hinge joint) – Loose staple the bottom two wires, every wire after that, and the top wire. In the bottom of a dip and at the crown of a rise, staple every wire to maintain spacing as the wire goes up and down.
Horse Fence and Low Carbon Field Fence – Typically, I loose staple every wire due to the elongation of LC wire. The staples are needed to hold it up.

These guidelines are by no means meant to be an official standard but are a guide to what I’ve used over the years.

Thanks,

Steven

Great stuff Steven! Honestly, I would have pounded the staples home if I followed my intuition. That way they would be secure. The loose staple concept was a revelation to me. Follow the same instruction for welded wire fencing materials. Now, here's a short video to reinforce the above information.