The Fence Post

When my son Daniel was 11 he announced he was getting goats. “You’re doing what?” I exclaimed. We had recently moved to a house on four acres in Massachusetts. He was looking at about two acres of grass to cut and being an entrepreneur at heart, he was determined to figure out the fastest solution to getting that job done. After much discussion, we headed to Crystal Brook Farm in Sterling, MA so Daniel could apply for a job. Ann Starbard, the goatherder and author of 'The Dairy Goat Handbook," hired him. How could she resist when he blurted out “I want to work for you and you don’t have to pay me.” That was the beginning of our life with goats and it all started with twins: Mr. Tumnus and Sherlock Holmes. Of course, before he brought the goats to their new home he needed a shed and a fence to keep them in.

Additions and Roaming

Then Ann gave Daniel a female goat for his birthday and no one bothered to tell me that she was pregnant! And true to many goats she had triplets: Amos and Andy and Abigail. And then there was Roo. Twelve years later we still have the original twins. Fencing them in and keeping them in has had its challenges through the years. Goats do roam and love to do it. They ate all my David Austin roses, our nice big strawberry patch, and my holly bush (with the most berries ever!) one Christmas. We found the weirdest streaks on our truck last winter: they had been licking the salt off the truck! I came home late one afternoon to find them playing in my neighbor’s front yard. Have you ever tried to get seven full-grown goats home? Without the neighbors hearing you? Not an easy feat. To a goat, the grass is always greener on the other side, especially after a New England winter.

Containing Them

There are two things you must accomplish with fencing in your goats:

• Keeping the goats contained so you don’t lose your roses (or your neighbors' roses!) or expose them to potentially harmful shrubs such as rhododendron
• Keeping your goats safe from predators: coyotes, for example

Thinking ahead:

• Type of fencing
• Land area you want to fence
• Size of your herd
• Terrain
• Your budget
• Do it yourself or hire someone

Options: Wire Mesh Fencing Materials

• Fixed Knot
• Electric fence, best used in combination with another fence
• Barbed wire
• Welded wire stock panels
• Stay-Tuff's Goat-Tuff™ fence

Are you thinking about getting goats? Do you already have goats in your life? Just remember one of the important things Daniel learned: A good secure fence is a necessity.

Integrated Pest Management Strategy

Deer prefer to eat plants with soft leaves and fruit. It is not unusual for a deer to go through 5 to 10 pounds of plant matter a day. Some of their food sources include fruit trees, rhododendrons, maples, and oak. Once deer establish a pattern of behavior it is very hard to break. However, this scenario might have been avoided using an Integrated Pest Management strategy. For instance, some of the methods for reducing deer damage are population control which involves hunting, trapping, and introducing contraception to reduce the herd. Hunting is less expensive. But most areas have communities that are more tolerant of deer and the damage they cause and are against hunting them.

Reducing Damage

Education is vital for preventing and managing deer problems. Understanding the biology and ecology of the species of deer in your area is important in finding alternatives that could reduce the damage caused by deer. You should be aware of the areas they gather in and the times as well as the size of the herd. Learn the identity of the plants and vegetation that they prefer. This information can prove helpful in selecting a method for controlling damage. Before selecting your method, try to have a goal in mind of what you want to accomplish.

Height vs. Electricity

Repellents can be used on plants to discourage deer from eating them. They work by affecting the smell or taste and making it difficult for deer to eat. Sometimes, deer will still eat the plants if they are hungry enough.

Scare devices or noise-making devices that are produced using gas exploders, dogs, blank gunfire, and fireworks.

Fences are the most popular control method. Fences are usually limited to small areas such as orchards, gardens, high-value crops, or areas where deer are particularly abundant.  There are two general categories: passive and active exclusion.

• Passive exclusion fences are woven wire fences that are too tall for deer to jump. They are at least eight feet high since deer can normally jump anything less than eight feet. A well-designed and effective fence will consist of 12-foot posts placed at 40-foot intervals and set to a depth of 4-feet, with woven wire attached to the posts. The bottom of the fence should be at ground level.
• Two 4-foot widths of wire fencing joined one on top of the other and attached to the posts can be used to keep deer out. You can also use an 8-foot tall deer fence. If a taller fence is desire, a strand of high tensile electrical wire can be strung above the woven wire.
• A fence that slants away from the area to be protected is a very effective design as well. These particular structures are often permanent and can protect an area year-round and should last at least twenty years. This method is recommended for areas that have recurring problems with deer damaging crops.

• Active exclusion fences use electricity to keep deer out of an area. The smell or appearance of the fence attracts the deer but when they touch the fence with their noses, they receive an electrical shock. This conditions the deer to avoid the fenced area. These fences are less expensive to construct than exclusion fences but are sometimes less effective because hungry deer can learn to jump over them. These fences also require more maintenance.

When you have the right fencing system in place to protect your orchards or plants, you can be sure the “buck” stops here!

There are various types of woven wire mesh used at the Franklin Park Zoo in Boston and Stone Zoo in Stoneham, Massachusetts. 

When strength, height, and larger openings are required, woven fences that are galvanized are used. Deer and wildlife fence is a popular choice. Available in a 96" height, the mesh has graduated openings between the horizontal wires with smaller openings at the bottom of the fence. Vertical stay wires are 6" apart. 12½ gauge high-tensile wires and fixed knot construction make it very strong. Class 3 galvanizing ensures a long lifetime.    

This is a versatile fence that can be used for both four-legged and two-legged animals. 

Another type of fence used is 2" x 2" woven non-climb mesh. Made from lighter 16 gauge wire, it can be used to make enclosures for smaller animals and birds. The top and bottom wires are heavier 14 gauge. The square deal knots that are used hold the horizontal and vertical wires securely in place, yet the fence has some flexibility which allows it to conform to the irregularities of the ground. The mesh has an open feel and is easy to see through. In the picture below the fence is used for the vertical sides of the display.

These are some of the different types of fencing used at the two zoos. What types of wire meshes have you observed at the zoos you have visited?

Helpful Fixed Knot Technique

A video showing you the best methods and wonderful tips for installing fixed knot fence, including safety considerations.