The Fence Post

Tension Bar, Fence Puller, and Come Along

Any help we can get when stretching a fence is appreciated--here, precautions are taken when working on a grade.

Expansion

Frost heaves are caused by water that is drawn up through deep unfrozen soil to varying depths of frozen soil beneath ground level. A horizontal ice lens grows particularly in clay-type soil, collects below the frozen soil, and then expands as it freezes, slowly pushing soil, as well as rocks and debris, upwards.

                                                                                                   Courtesy of Wikipedia Commons

What Lurks Below 

Certain types of soils are not a concern. Gravel and sandy soil are not susceptible to the exchange of moisture that create frost heaves. Very thick clay soil is also immune. Also, where frost only penetrates the soil an inch or two there is no need to be concerned about frost heaves, such as on the west coast and the southernmost parts of the U.S. 

However, where freezing goes deeply into the soil, your fence posts (and the footings of your deck) are subject to this upward pressure. The concrete in the fence post's base is an excellent conductor of heat and attracts moisture which can form an ice lens around the concrete base, rendering it susceptible to movement. A pressure-treated wooden post is not a good conductor of heat, particularly when wrapped with plastic or coated with tar; this helps prevent the up and down movement of the post. 

General Guidelines

Most likely, setting a post a couple of feet, and up to 5 feet, is required to offset this issue. Your local town building inspector probably has guidelines for the best depths for fence posts in your particular area. If you dig a hole that's wider at the top in a V shape, you'll have a problem. The smaller bottom of the hole will provide little resistance for the upward pressure of the moisture and what follows it. A hole dug in the shape of a bell (wider at the bottom) is better, fill it with:

• concrete
• gravel or gravel with masonry sand for good compaction
• then tamp it down every six inches

Bring the concrete or fill within a few inches of ground level and fill the rest of the way up with tamped-down dirt. Concrete footers are the best bet for offsetting the pressure that works on the fence above the frost line. Some experts recommend an insulating pad of Styrofoam about 2 inches thick beneath the footer. However, when all is said and done, setting your posts at least 2 feet underground is a safe bet. 

Frost heaves can also push up plants and expose roots to damaging wind and cold, not to mention poorly prepared roads and sidewalks.

Here's a thorough going-over of the process with a variety of scenarios:  

Do you have expertise in your area on the subject of frost heaves? Please share your insights or recommendations below.

The Eyesore

Some neighbors might ignore you quite satisfactorily, other neighbors are kind or conversational in passing, while some offer more exchange, even the possibility of becoming true friends. And then there are those neighbors that consider your mere presence an insult, the sight of you and your domain an anathema. This grumbling soul can for the most part be ignored by you, you imagine that there must be good reasons, and as you are not in charge of this curmudgeon's emotional state, it is best to simply go on about your business, keeping the glaring eyes in your periphery. Seething anger is unpleasant all the way to being scary and best not to jostle a hornet's nest. Until the day when it goes up--the eyesore, that pure symbol of animosity, a monument to meanness: an ugly fence. A spite fence. An intentionally unappealing fence that: 

• has no purpose
• goes with nothing
• interrupts everything
• calls attention to itself 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                           www.asmussenfoto.dk

Neighbors

Perhaps the phenomenon of "spite fences" is a new concept; generally, it's when a neighbor builds a fence to purposefully antagonize one's neighbors. If the fence is unattractive, the eyesore may elicit a response from the neighborhood as a whole or in part. If not already, the neighbors may become cut off from the contentious builder of the fence or from other neighbors as frustration builds and sides are taken. Litigation that involves such disputes is difficult to measure, as the offense for the most part is psychological with varying circumstances.

In the U.S., the blocking of light and air is not considered a recognized offense (as it can be in other countries.) If the issue is the height of a fence, local codes may be consulted and the law may have your back; however, merely blocking the view of a neighboring yard is not a cause for an official complaint. A major directive on fence building is that it not cause injury to others. Some states have adopted ordinances regarding spite fences and guidelines have been created. Generally, it must be established that the fence is solely built to antagonize and has no practical or seemly purpose. It is up to the defendant to prove that the fence has a function other than to perturb those living nearby.

Communicating Objections 

At the outset, it may be important to consider that you're not the one to approach the offender. One of your other neighbors may have a better relationship with the problematic fence owner and may be able to smooth the way. If you've collected other complaining neighbors, it may be best to put your objections in writing rather than showing up at the door en masse. On your own time, venting and gossiping about your neighbor may seem unifying with others, but it may be fueling the fire and raising your blood pressure. If at all possible, depending on the willingness of the various parties involved in a fence dispute, a mediator might be able to assist in a standoff. A trained mediator enables a discussion with both parties with the aim of establishing a dialogue, exploring the fence's (and the neighbor's) purpose, and the potential dismantling of the fence.  

Lacking a Resolution

You must question yourself and realize that the conflict may never go away and that you must acknowledge your part in the dispute, working on the triggers the fence brings up in you.

• Is it possible you are being merely self-seeking, arrogant, or high-minded?
• Is your being right propping up a sense of self-righteousness that borders on obsession? 
• Are there any inroads you could make to mollify the hostility with the neighbor?
• Is there a way you can introduce humor into the situation moving forward, if only for yourself? 

Not feeding the antagonism may assist in a resolution. Adjust your perspective and try to find a bigger picture to help diffuse the tension. Taking a step back, and waiting to respond when conflict arises is always a good plan. It never hurts to retreat, reflect, allow your blood pressure to lower, and then return to the fray, if indeed necessary.

While we're on the subject of neighbors and boundaries, have a look at our blog, "Does a Good Fence Make a Good Neighbor?"

Important Considerations

Buying fencing without seeing it can be difficult but we are here to help you. We have pulled together our top 4 key considerations to help you choose the best fence for your needs.

1.  The Type of Wire Determines a Fence's Durability and Use

For example, vinyl-coated and stainless steel fences offer maximum durability, making them ideal choices for harsh environments and applications where longevity is a must.

We provide four unique types of welded wire to address any durability and budget needs:

Galvanized Before Weld (GBW)

GBW mesh is made from strands of galvanized wire welded together. During the welding process, the rust preventing galvanizing is burned off at the weld points where the wires intersect. These meshes are economical but have a limited lifetime. A general purpose mesh, ideal for low-cost fencing, kennels, cages, and a variety of other uses.

Galvanized After Weld (GAW)

GAW mesh is made by dipping previously welded mesh into a bath of molten zinc. The entire mesh, including the welded areas, is thoroughly sealed and protected against rust. This wire is particularly useful for animal enclosures or other applications where rust prevention and long life is desired. Ideally suited for use as ground wire for bird enclosures and animal enclosures. (ZA (zinc aluminum for agricultural fences (one step between GAW & Vinyl Coated).

Vinyl Coated (VC)

VC mesh is made by coating either galvanized before or galvanized after welded mesh with a thick layer of black or green PVC fused to the wire by a heat process, creating an attractive, tough, long-lasting, weather and chemical-resistant mesh. Vinyl coated meshes have the longest lifetime in any application. This 12½" gauge mesh with 1½" x 1½" openings makes a particularly excellent floor for dog kennels.

Stainless Steel

SS welded wire mesh, strong and long-lasting, needs no additional finish to protect it. The wire itself is extremely resistant to rust, corrosion, and harsh chemicals. Use stainless mesh or fence in areas with prolonged exposure to salt and other corrosives.

2.  Wire Gauge: a Fence that Endures

• Wire gauge also determines durability and use. The lower the gauge number the thicker the wire, making low gauge fencing ideal for applications where strength and durability are required.
• Along with the wire type, wire gauge determines how tough and long-lasting your fence will be. Louis Page sells welded wire in 10.5, 11, 12.5, 14, 16, 19, and 23 gauge thicknesses.
• Remember, the lower the gauge number, the thicker and stronger the wire will be.
• Thicker wire is more resistant to the elements and tougher for critters to chew through. A sharp beak can make short work of a thin gauge wire. No such luck with a thicker gauge!
• For these reasons, wire gauge is an important factor in determining both how long your fence will last and the use for which it is best suited.

3.  Mesh Openings: a Wide Variety of Uses

Smaller mesh opening is important for fencing in or out smaller animals, which could slip through a larger opening. Smaller openings also make for more rigid panels, making durability a secondary consideration.

Mesh opening is a very important factor to consider based on what you’re planning to fence in or out.

4.  Fence Height - Animals Test the Boundaries

Quite simply, taller fencing is required to fence in and out larger animals, and animals that can jump high. Fence height is very important factor based on what you’re planning to fence in or out. Simply put, taller fencing is required to fence in and out larger animals, as well as animals that can jump high. For example, shorter fences are ideal for uses like chicken enclosures, rabbit cages, and puppy kennels. A taller fence is required for enclosing large farm animals like cows and goats and fencing out deer.

• A taller fence is required when safety and the security of people is the goal, such as in the case of a pool fence or at places like construction sites, zoos, or public parks.

Our experts are ready and waiting by the phone to answer your questions and help you choose the right fence for your project.