The Fence Post

A Brief Lesson Before Stapling

Do you know how to use galvanized fence staples? I certainly didn’t. I didn’t realize there was anything to know.

Fence staples or u-nails as they are also called aren’t very complicated; however, there is a minimum amount of knowledge you should have to make sure the staples secure your fence in the way that they're intended to be. Being one whose staple knowledge was insufficient to use them, I consulted an expert who kindly took the time to educate me. Steven Sarson (watch his video about Low Carbon Wire vs High Tensile Wire) of Bekaert has many years of experience in the fencing industry and sent me an email that was very informative and I’ve included it in its entirety below.

Here is Steve's letter:

Josh,

Here are my general ideas on stapling wire to posts:

Smooth wire electric – Loose staple every wire. Keep spaces consistent by using a measuring stick with spaces marked on it. Start from the bottom when stapling. Most animals will go under the fence rather than over.

Barbed Wire – Loose staple every wire. Use a measuring stick. Mark the wire positions. I prefer to start at the top when installing multiple strands of barbed wire so successive wires don’t get hung up.

Woven Wire – Always loose staple the wires. Wire expands and contracts with temperature change and also needs to be free to move under the staple so the brace takes the impact and not the stapled post. Here is the pattern I use: 

• High Tensile field fence (Fixed Knot, Hinge joint) – Loose staple the bottom two wires, every wire after that, and the top wire. In the bottom of a dip and at the crown of a rise, staple every wire to maintain spacing as the wire goes up and down.
• Horse Fence and Low Carbon Field Fence – Typically, I loose staple every wire due to the elongation of LC wire. The staples are needed to hold it up.

These guidelines are by no means meant to be an official standard but are a guide to what I’ve used over the years.

Thanks,

Steven  

Great stuff Steven! Honestly, I would have pounded the staples home if I followed my intuition. That way they would be secure. The loose staple concept was a revelation to me. Follow the same instruction for welded wire fencing materials. Now, here's a short video to reinforce the above information.

To those of you who are professionals, this is probably not news. Does anybody else have tips out there? We’d love to hear them.

Wire mesh and wire fencing are things in which people just don’t have much knowledge. It's rare that someone at the big-box home improvement store, or a relative or neighbor for that matter, might know something about how to select it. Wire fence is sort of a specialty item, and if you find yourself in need of it, information tailored for the end consumer can seem scarce. An ignorant seller can pass on this lack of knowledge to the customer and you end up with an unhappy buying-selling relationship. Even a good-intentioned seller can spread costly misinformation while meaning to help. The customer meanwhile is more inclined to believe what he or she is told, particularly when that means a lower price.

To Illustrate: A Fictional Conversation

How bad information can be circulated. 

Characters:

Big Box Bob--mowed lawns and weed-whacked as part of a grounds maintenance team, now in school to be an electrician and working as an apprentice.

Frugal Francine--Francine is an accountant by day and tends her garden and cares for her two Doberman pinschers on nights and weekends.

Scene: In the lawn and garden section of a local big-box retailer. 

Francine (approaches Bob): Hi. I want some fence to replace the rusty old chicken wire I put around my garden. There were a couple of rolls of it when I bought the house and I usually just replace it every couple of years when it gets too mangled to deal with. I’m sick of that though. I can’t be replacing the fence every year, and plant my garden, and still have time for my dobies. I’d rather just put something up that’s going to last. I’ve looked online a little and found that there are several options for a garden fence. They all sound like they are built to last a long time, but there is so much difference in price between the different types of...of...galvanized wire, and then even more disparity between the galvanized and the...the...vinyl coated wire. Incredibly, not even all vinyl-coated wire is the same price. Is there really that much difference in quality, or is it all a big scam? I’m so frustrated. I just want a fence that will be permanent. What I value, is reliability and I don’t want to pay for fancy stuff that I don’t need. Please help me!

Bob: Francine I totally understand your frustration and I think I can help. I’ve actually never worked with wire mesh or fencing, but I do have some knowledge about what galvanizing does and I have some thoughts about what you are paying for with some of the fancier vinyl-coated stuff.

Francine: Oh Bob, you're wonderful! Please! Tell me how it is.

Bob: Fran, It’s like this. Galvanizing is a process by which a protective zinc coating is applied to steel or iron so that it does not rust (Wikipedia). If the fencing is galvanized, then that is all you need for it to last indefinitely assuming it doesn’t get cut or trampled. All the other things like galvanized after weld and the different types of vinyl coating are for aesthetic purposes, or to make it stronger to keep animals in or something. So, if you want to save some moolah and still have a fence that lasts forever, I would just get the inexpensive, galvanized before weld, welded wire. Any other questions, Franny?

Franny: Hmm...what you say sure sounds technical and smart. I’ll admit that saving a few dollars would be really nice. I really appreciate you not pushing the pricey stuff on me. Are you sure galvanized won’t rust?

Bob: Yes. Sure, looked it up me-self. (First sentence about galvanization on Wikipedia.)

Fran: Okay Bob. I really appreciate your expertise. I’ll take a roll and some 6-foot steel posts, please.

Bob: Dealio!  (And...scene.)
 

Differences

So, you can see how there are no bad intentions here. Bob thinks he is being very decent and fair, and Francine feels as though she has been treated well and will never have to replace this galvanized fence. Unfortunately, Bob’s instincts have not served him well, and Francine’s trust has been misplaced. Galvanized does not last forever. The chart below from Bekaert Corporation gives an idea of how long galvanized can last and the difference between types of galvanized wire.

First Signs of Rust

Depending on the type of galvanizing that is done, Francine could be looking at one year or less before she starts to see rust forming on her “rust-proof” fence. How will Francine feel about Bob when the first signs of rust appear at the weld points on her fence? What distinguishes a long-lasting fence from a semi-temporary one can be seemingly subtle differences. It is worth it to find someone who has taken the time to know the difference between the vast array of products available.

A Skunk Under My Shed 

The Fluffy Shadow 

I have to think twice before taking the garbage out at night or going to find something in the shed after dark. When I go from car to house or house to car after dark, I move quickly with eyes scanning the ground for a fluffy shadow or set of eyes twinkling in the moonlight. My dwelling is terrorized by a skunk that wages a putrid form of guerrilla warfare against my household. It has made its home under our shed and I am loath to engage it in battle. It has to go. We can’t stand the thought of more summer evenings spoiled by the threat of an altercation with these hostiles. The question is: how does one get rid of a skunk?

Methods for Extraction

Modern life offers a lot of very easy solutions to problems that confounded earlier generations. Unfortunately, there is no “easy button” for skunk removal. Unless I am willing to damage the shed (what I’m calling the tip and run method), the animal (poison), or both (flooding/burning) I don’t know how to avoid the physical act of removing the animal. There are some tips on how to get rid of them, but the ones that don’t risk an encounter with the skunk, seem not to work. For example, I read that putting a dirty sock by their entrance would make them move their home. This is untrue. I put a post-basketball sock out there and if this sock wasn’t dirty enough, we might be better off with the skunks than a dirtier sock. I waited a few days hoping that the skunk's repeated encounters with the sock would send it packing, but alas, the skunk remains.

Chatting with a Professional

As may already be apparent from this post, I have an intense fear of being sprayed by a skunk. Generally, I like do-it-yourself projects, but I think for the removal phase of this project I will have to turn to a professional. I spoke to a Louis Page customer, Erik from Needham/Woburn Pest Control, about how to keep the critters out from under the shed once they are extracted. He recommended the following labor-intense, yet straightforward solution.         

1. Dig a trench around the shed 12” deep and 12”-18” wide extending away from the base of the shed.
2. Using ½" x ½" welded wire mesh, 36” wide, staple the top edge to the base of the shed with galvanized staples.
3. Lay the remaining 30 or so inches into the trench to cover 12” inches down and 18” out.
4. Backfill the trench and voilà! Skunk proof!

Since the mesh will be underground, I’ll need to be sure that it is resistant to rust and corrosion. Galvanized after weld offers good protection, but black vinyl coated mesh would be even better and the small amount of exposed wire mesh around the base of the shed will look much better over time if it does not rust. Also, the black color will be virtually invisible. This is really not something I want to do twice.

That’s the plan I think. Onward and upward. And certainly, your ideas are always appreciated!

You might think that as we were living in a small city, in an area with traffic and in a house surrounded by other houses, without any woods around, with a sturdy picket fence surrounding our property, and with a very humble garden, that we would be safe from furry whatsits eating away all our amateur agricultural aspirations. You might also know better, as we now do.

Planting Was Swift

Last summer my wife and I planted our first backyard vegetable garden. She has dabbled with flowers and herbs in containers, but we never had space for a vegetable garden until last year. We moved into a place with a quarter of an acre yard behind the house. The layout was designed and I tilled a small 6 x 12 space. I also lugged the bags of gardening soil and some supposedly composted manure I picked up from a local farm (by “composted” they only meant that there may have been some incidental material mixed in with the bags of raw cow manure. My car smelled for a month and we couldn’t use it on the garden this year. Don’t ask why I brought it home with me.)  And then we planted several different vegetables and had them all in the ground by the second week in June.

Green Beans, Gone

Two months later, our modest effort was rewarded. We had too many tomatoes, not enough peppers, and just enough fresh basil (it’s painful to think about fresh basil in the midst of a New England winter.)  We also had some tasty snow peas. The only total failure was the green beans. It seems that a critter crawled unimpeded into our garden and ate the whole plant except for a small stump. Hmm. Fresh green beans are beloved and we want to be sure that next year they're on our plates. We already have a picket fence that I installed to keep our young son in our backyard. Now I have to consider what to use to keep some unidentified, but presumably small animal out of our garden. There are some logical, but not necessarily obvious questions I have to answer.

• What type of critters am I trying to keep out? Rabbits probably, skunk maybe?
• How long do we need this fence to last?  Maybe 2, maybe 10 years. Not sure really.

Black Vinyl-Coated Wire to the Rescue

So after answering a couple of questions, I decided that this would be the fence for our garden. I am going to use a 36-inch hexagonal chicken wire fence with black vinyl coating. It will be tall enough to keep out small animals and leave me room to bury the bottom thus preventing an attack from below. The black vinyl coating is aesthetically neutral, blending with its background and allowing us to appreciate the beauty of our garden. The UV-treated PVC coating gives extra protection from rust and corrosion. I’ll staple it to some pressure-treated posts which I may or may not set in concrete. That should work. I feel good about it.

C’mon spring!